Wednesday, 29 April 2015

WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE - dark circles & correctors

If I had to pick one thing that over time has annoyed me the most, it would be my dark circles.
As I have aged they have become more obvious as my face has lost it's plumpness and though I've gained cheek bones and definition - I am also the proud owner of two sunken under eye areas that are the attractive shade of purple with a hint of blue/grey.
I am aware that these are partly hereditary and in reality I could be plagued with an affliction so much worse - so lets no lose our heads. 
As a non-fan of eye creams, which not only have dried my eye area but made it puffy - I stay away from them and apply all my products under the eye (don't panic, it's not as though I am heaping lotions and potions there, just the last remnants of products)

This is where correctors come in, the search still continues for 'THE ONE', but products are getting better and for me correctors make a huge difference to the finished look. Concealers in the right shade can work just as well as specific correctors, see my first choice and current favourite.
I find applying a corrector before any makeup works best for me, I pat it only under the eye and surrounding dark area. I then follow with foundation and then go in with concealer, which brightens and lifts rather than disguises, I also take concealer over a wider area (post to follow about concealers).

Here are some of my favourite products -

Chanel Perfection Concealer in shade 30, is the right shade of peach for me to use as a corrector.
Thick consistency, which blends easily without caking under the eye area.
It sets without being powdered and doesn't move when I go in with foundation.
I can see the difference in photos, the circles are less obvious.

Bobbi Brown Corrector in Bisque, again the perfect peach shade, which works well for me and the tone of my circles. This was my favourite of all the damnyoudarkcircles products but my heart has strayed (see above).

Creamy consistency, blends easily using fingers to press the product under the eye.

Medium coverage but can be built up for a heavier effect, this can cause the corrector to gather beneath the eye and
look caked, add a small amount to build coverage is the best way to avoid this.
One of the best specific correctors out there. May be bought on singularly or as a duo with a concealer.    

Loving the Garnier BB cream for combination skin it seemed obvious to try the BB Miracle Skin Perfector Roll On for eyes.  Again I chose a darker shade and it does a pretty good job. Lightweight, cooling, thanks to the roller ball. Subtle consistency, which can be built up, set the first layer and then build using fingers or a setting brush.
Lovely product but it doesn't last long                                                                     and that's my only complaint .

This was my attempt to find a drugstore version of the Bobbi Brown Corrector and it's pretty gorgeous. Nearly a match colour wise, this Makeup Academy peach prime and conceal, is a nice cream texture, which applies best to the eye area using the warmth of fingers. Patting the colour only over the dark circles, it evens the colour and lessens the darkness.
A great value product that works well.

Back to the high-street again and this the superb Seventeen range from Boots.
Sold as a heavy duty concealer, this is very thick and super creamy, it is rather light in colour (medium shade) as I bought it for concealing,  but the texture lends itself well to correcting - if applied with fingers.

Too much can looked very heavy and creased, less is more with this terrifically priced concealer.                                                                          

My last offering is the Kevyn Aucoin Skin Enhancer, which can used anywhere on the face, as a foundation, concealer, corrector or to counter balance bronzer when contouring. 
Super thick, I mean solid - this is where the expression "less is more" is very apt. 
You need a pin prick amount of product, seriously it is that thick and strongly pigmented. The shade I have is rather light in colour for correcting, so I need to choose a darker tone but the consistency means super coverage. 
The hard thing is balancing the coverage without the heaviness and extreme caking and creasing if you use too much. 
Superb value, since you use such a tiny amount, the product lasts years. Keep the lid tightly closed and it stays as good as new. 

This is how I apply corrector, it looks a lot and with certain products you need to do that. This I blend with fingers or the Real Techniques Setting Brush. Always pat the product even when using a brush, it properly sets it under the eye and stops other products diluting your hard work. The tone and colour of dark circles needs to be considered when choosing the tone of corrector, for me peach does the trick, anything pink would make the area look bruised and green would accentuate the area and look mouldy, not a good look really. 

There are so many products out there that claim to banish dark circles, I have never found one that works, so disguising them is my solution. There is a great choice of drugstore options that work on a similar level to high end options. At this moment my preferred product is high end but that can all change in the blink of a dark circled eye. 


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